This guide covers four road trips in south-east Europe: the Bay of Kotor in Montenegro (a day or two), Romania's Transfagarasan (a day, open roughly July to October), the Albanian Riviera (two or three days) and Dubrovnik to Plitvice in Croatia (five days). Late May to mid-June and September are the best times. Accommodation and food are generally cheaper than in Western Europe.
Expect more border crossings and more variable roads than in Western Europe, and a lot of history from the car window: Ottoman mosques, Austro-Hungarian towns, communist-era monuments and medieval monasteries.
1. The Bay of Kotor, Montenegro
The Bay of Kotor is often compared to a Norwegian fjord transplanted to the Mediterranean, and the comparison is apt. This deep, winding inlet on Montenegro's Adriatic coast is surrounded by mountains that rise to nearly 1,800 metres directly from the water, so the shore road is squeezed between cliffs and water, passing through medieval stone towns, past waterside churches, and under sheer limestone cliffs.
Kotor itself is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a perfectly preserved medieval walled town tucked into the innermost corner of the bay beneath the fortress of San Giovanni. The climb to the fortress involves about 1,350 steps, with the whole bay spread out below, the terracotta roofs of the old town, and the mountains disappearing into haze.
Bay of Kotor driving route
- Herceg Novi to Kotor (43 km): Follow the bay's northern shore through Bijela, Risan (with its Roman mosaics), and Perast (home to two tiny island churches). This section takes much longer than the distance suggests because the road hugs every inlet.
- Kotor to Budva (about 25 km): The direct road tunnels under the Vrmac ridge and drops to the open Adriatic. For the view, take the old road from Kotor up 25 hairpins towards Njeguši and Lovćen first, then return.
- Budva to Sveti Stefan (10 km): A short coastal drive to one of the most photographed spots in the Mediterranean, a fortified island village connected to the mainland by a narrow causeway.
Take the car ferry across the bay from Kamenari to Lepetane. It cuts 40 minutes off the drive around the inner bay, costs a few euros and runs frequently all year. You do miss Perast and Risan if you take it.
Plan this trip to map out the complete Bay of Kotor route with stops and accommodation.
2. Romania's Transfagarasan Highway
Top Gear called the Transfagarasan "the best road in the world" in 2009. Built between 1970 and 1974 on the orders of Nicolae Ceausescu as a strategic military route across the Carpathian Mountains, the Transfagarasan (DN7C) climbs to 2,042 metres, making it the second-highest paved road in Romania. It has hundreds of bridges and viaducts and a tunnel of almost 900 metres under the ridge at Balea.
The road ascends the northern face of the Fagaras Mountains from Cartisoara through a stack of hairpin bends, passing Balea Waterfall before emerging at Balea Lake, a glacial lake at 2,034 metres surrounded by alpine meadows and rocky peaks. The descent on the southern side is longer and wooded, dropping through dense forest to the shores of the Vidraru Reservoir, a vast artificial lake held back by a 166-metre-high dam.
Essential Transfagarasan information
- Open season: The high section (above Balea Waterfall) is usually open from 1 July to 31 October, weather permitting. Check current conditions before setting out.
- Length: About 90 km over the mountains (the whole DN7C is around 150 km), but allow a full day with stops for photos, the lake, and the waterfall.
- Starting points: Sibiu from the north, Curtea de Arges or Pitesti from the south.
- Traffic: Weekends in July and August can be extremely busy. Visit on a weekday or in September for a better experience.
- Combine with: The Transalpina (DN67C), Romania's highest road at 2,145 metres, is nearby and arguably even more scenic with far fewer tourists.
Don't skip the Transalpina (DN67C), located about 100 km west. It is higher than the Transfagarasan, usually much quieter, and runs along open high ridges. The stretch between Ranca and Novaci is the most twisty. Together, the two roads make a superb three-day loop from Sibiu.
3. The Albanian Riviera
The Albanian Riviera runs between Vlora and Saranda in southern Albania, with beaches and coves to match Greece or Croatia for less money. The route follows the SH8 coast road, which was much improved in the 2010s but still has steep climbs, tight switchbacks and sudden views of turquoise coves.
The road climbs over the Llogara Pass at 1,027 metres, where you leave the outskirts of Vlora behind and see the whole coast below you for the first time. Below the pass, the road descends through pine forests to a succession of beaches and coves: Palase, Dhermi, Drymades, Gjipe, Himara, Porto Palermo, and finally Ksamil, a cluster of beaches with very clear water.
Albanian Riviera stops
- Llogara Pass: Stop at one of the roadside restaurants for grilled lamb with views over the Ionian Sea. Paragliders launch from the pass.
- Dhermi and Drymades: Twin beaches with clear water, beach bars, and an increasingly stylish hotel scene. Still far cheaper than equivalent spots in Greece.
- Gjipe Beach: Accessible only by boat or a 30-minute walk down a canyon. Worth the effort for a quiet cove.
- Porto Palermo: A tiny bay dominated by an Ottoman-era fortress built by Ali Pasha of Ioannina, set on a small peninsula.
- Ksamil: Small islands just offshore, reachable by swimming. Very busy in July and August.
- Butrint: A UNESCO World Heritage archaeological site near Saranda, with Greek, Roman, Byzantine, and Venetian ruins layered on a lakeside site.
Extend your trip to Tirana, Albania's vibrant capital, roughly four hours north. Plan this trip for a full Albanian road trip itinerary.
4. Croatia: Dubrovnik to Plitvice Lakes
This route through Croatia connects two of the country's most famous attractions, the medieval walled city of Dubrovnik and the terraced lakes of Plitvice National Park, via some of the most beautiful coastline in the Adriatic. The drive covers roughly 550 km and traverses the full length of Croatia's Dalmatian coast before turning inland through the Velebit Mountains. Since the Peljesac Bridge opened in 2022 you no longer have to cross the Bosnian corridor at Neum.
The coastal section follows the D8 Adriatic Highway (Jadranska magistrala), built along a narrow strip between the mountains and the sea. The road passes through Split (with Diocletian's Palace, a Roman emperor's retirement home that became a living city), the medieval island-connected town of Trogir, and the resort towns of Makarska and Omis, each set beneath towering limestone peaks.
Suggested 5-day itinerary
- Day 1: Explore Dubrovnik. Walk the complete circuit of the city walls (1,940 metres), visit Fort Lovrijenac, and take the cable car to Mount Srd for sunset views.
- Day 2: Drive the Adriatic coast to Split (230 km, 3.5 hours). Stop at Ston for oysters from Mali Ston Bay and the Peljesac Peninsula for wine tasting.
- Day 3: Explore Split and Diocletian's Palace. Optional day trip to Trogir or Brac island.
- Day 4: Drive north to Plitvice Lakes (260 km, 3.5 hours). Stop in Zadar for the Sea Organ, an architectural installation that uses wave power to create music.
- Day 5: Full day at Plitvice Lakes National Park. The Upper Lakes circuit takes 3-4 hours and passes the Great Waterfall (78 metres), the tallest in Croatia.
Book Plitvice tickets online in advance during summer. The park now limits daily visitor numbers, and tickets sell out quickly for July and August. Arrive at 7am when the park opens for the best light and the thinnest crowds. The boardwalks are quietest first thing.
Plan this trip to map the complete Dubrovnik to Plitvice route with all stops.
Planning Your Balkans Road Trip
Driving in the Balkans needs a bit more preparation than Western Europe. See our guide to driving in the Balkans for country-by-country rules.
Border crossings
If your route crosses multiple countries (which most Balkans road trips do), be prepared for border delays. Croatia and Slovenia are in the Schengen Area; Montenegro, Albania, Serbia, Bosnia, and North Macedonia are not. Carry your passport, vehicle registration, and insurance documents. Some borders have long queues in summer, particularly the Croatia-Montenegro crossing at Debeli Brijeg. UK drivers don't need an International Driving Permit in Croatia or Slovenia; for Montenegro, Albania, Bosnia and Serbia check current UK government advice (see using your UK licence abroad).
Road conditions
Main highways in Croatia and Slovenia are excellent (and tolled). Montenegro's main routes are good but narrow. Albania's road network has improved enormously in recent years but secondary roads can still be rough. Romania's highways are limited, but the mountain passes (Transfagarasan, Transalpina) are well-surfaced. Drive cautiously on unfamiliar roads, especially at night.
Costs
- Fuel: Often cheaper than in Western Europe, but not everywhere. Albania's prices can be close to Western levels.
- Accommodation: Excellent value throughout. A comfortable double room is roughly 25-50 EUR per night in Albania, 40-80 EUR in Montenegro and Croatia outside peak season.
- Food: Outstanding and affordable. Budget 10-20 EUR per person for a full meal with drinks at a good local restaurant.
- Tolls: Croatia has motorway tolls, Slovenia needs an e-vignette, Romania a rovinieta for national roads, and Serbia and North Macedonia charge motorway tolls. Montenegro has the Sozina tunnel toll.
Frequently asked questions
Is it safe to drive in the Balkans?
Yes. The Balkans are generally very safe for road trippers. Crime rates in the region are low, and locals are overwhelmingly friendly and hospitable to visitors. The main risks are road-related: unfamiliar driving styles (overtaking can be aggressive in some countries), narrow mountain roads, and occasionally poor road surfaces on secondary routes. Drive defensively, avoid driving at night on unfamiliar mountain roads, and take regular breaks. Croatia, Montenegro, and Albania are all popular driving destinations with well-established tourism infrastructure.
When is the best time for a Balkans road trip?
Late May to mid-June and September to mid-October are the sweet spots. The weather is warm and sunny, the tourist crowds are manageable, accommodation is easier to book and cheaper, and the coastal waters are warm enough for swimming. July and August bring intense heat (regularly above 35C on the coast), packed roads, and peak prices. The Transfagarasan's high section is usually only open from July to October, so factor this in if Romania is part of your itinerary.
Can I rent a car in one country and return it in another?
Yes, but with caveats. Major rental companies like Sixt, Europcar, and Enterprise offer one-way cross-border rentals, but drop-off fees can be significant (150-400 EUR). Some rental companies restrict which countries their vehicles can enter, and Albania is a common restriction. Always declare your full itinerary to the rental company and ensure you have appropriate insurance for every country on your route. Green Card insurance is required for some Balkans countries and should be provided by the rental company if you declare your route in advance.